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if I am not repeating my self, I also noticed the chrome coming off of where the o-ring sits, you might want to feather edge this part. Looks real bad and may also cause a leak. (IMO)

Those internal reliefs kinda suck, you won't get that snap-up, as the fluid will pass through the relief too soon for split second, and will also make an odd sound. So the less batteries all around is better.

The pumps are rated between 1800-2200 psi factory setting, so unless they are new, you won't need to adjust them, if they are used, the relief is most likely been screwed down tight.

The way best way is connect them up, and back off the screw maybe three turns, then raise the car looking at the PSI. keep the switch on until you get full pressure, which might be 1000-1500 (if the spring has not been ruin.)

Then give it a 1/2 turn and try it again, until you see 2000 PSI, When feeling frisky, then up it another 1/4 turn at a time.

From Zooter86

I've actually been putting together a setup of these for my car of old stock parts & this topic was exactly what I needed.

I got some NOS blocks that were disassembled & have been trying to determine a base-setting for the pressure relief valve screw: any input/ideas? or what pressure I should adjust it to once the setup is in?

one thing I did that I thought really cleaned up the look of the tops of the blocks was I replaced the hex bolt plug between the cartridges with a hex plug that sat flush with the top of the blocks. here's the ones I bought & used:

http://www.buyersproducts.com/Hydrau...lug-1075/3029/  Link is not working

& thanks for aiming to be different.

I like the idea of using the accumulators, these might (IMO) take some load off the dumps, and if you don't ride topped off.

I never used these type of blocks, but a guy on here had two for 60.00 p/p Once I got to looking around, this was the same week some people were talking about problems. SO I get out the flash light and magnifying glass and took off parts. The machine work sucked, and I believe the only way to avoid problems is to avoid too much pressure, and pressure spikes. This included when dumping. Never ride fully topped off so much that the coils start to compress.

All IMO.

here is an email I sent:
Here is what I would do,
avoid using too many batteries, the slower it goes up IMO, the less chance of a pressure spike.
and try not to just drop it or shudder the switch, (meaning hitting the dump so fast, the car shudders down) So don't leave the slow down wide open, a nice med to dump is better IMO.
Never ride it with a heavy top off, or with the coils compressed.
Use accumulators

One more, use a pressure gauge on each pump and adjust the internal relief valve if needed, and use BMH hopping cylinders. And depending on many turns are left on your coils, maybe 6" cylinder and 8"cylinders for the rear, In my opinion the more coils turns and less tonnage the better.

It's the pressure spikes that will get ya. IMO

Images from Gotchadef:

A different check valve and layout on a CCE block

Images from Edmund.

But the spacer I'm thinking off may not work, but I just thought of something else, see that second pic and how much space the ring has above it.
What if you can get a spacer/washer etc. to fit on that flat inner part where the seal butts up to on the dump, (not block). Having say 1/16" or 3/32" space would push the ring down more inside the block.

IMO is would still seat uneven, but might work...



I was just outside and forgot somethings I was going to post (damn nap time). But one was of the chrome pealing where the dump seals into the block, finding this bug throw a wrench into things, I wanted the ring to sit low, but now you need to feather edge the damaged chrome first.

If you ever noticed, on the top side swivel fittings is the metal ring I was talking about, very hard to remove, unless you can flatten the first beginning thread near the o-ring side, you then may be able to turn it off. and put that on the sol valve.

Now there is a 3rd idea, should be cheaper and anyone can do it. Just get a 1/8" thick washer, This washer needs to fit real well around that hmm.. little raised area on the valve where the ring sits.

The opening of the washer must be approx .0875" if the OD (NOT ID) is too large, just grind the outside so that it just fits inside the recessed are on the top of the block. Or more more than 1.100" OD.

Now if the check valve was given any serious consideration by Reds, it could have been built into the pump head, or as the pump head and block meet, or inside the block with in an inch of the pump head.

REDS may have been able to modify the pressure release to act as a check valve.





see this article: http://www.layitlow.com/forums/13-hydraulics/629178-double-top-pumps-2.html#post22119617

From:
Rick Dizzle

Wow bro...I never looked at it that deep and (face palm), wish I would of thought of using that metal spacer to back that o-ring. I bet that would have really helped! Remembering how the o-rings would blow out the side, would have been avoided by the spacer. I tried seals of all different sizes and thicknesses and could never compensate for it blowing and or splitting. I found that the thicker o-rings would split...I am pretty sure I was inadvertently pinching the thicker o-rings when tightening everything down. As for the check ball/spring...I had a couple that had pitting in them over time. But you are correct, they just drop in, no guidance at all or direction keeping it "square" going in.

OK, you see the large round drilled or milled area on the block where the ring sits, just before going into the block, Fenner used to use a 1/16" inch thick round spacer that sat just outside the ring. The ring had no where to blow. Plus looking at the ring seat on the valve, there is too much clearance, that ring should not even move, when the block is cut wrong. A thin teflon ring might have helped, above or below the ring, I am not sure. But it is a sloppy fit and may take a few dollars to fix them all, if my thoughts are correct.

But this problem with the ring is also in the block, it is not machined completely round. Using a thicker ring might solved this problem or just the teflon spacer (on the valve). I forget what the teflon rings that roll around onto the shaft is called.


I think they can all be fixed, I just need to understand everything about blowing the seal. Then trying different things here and there.



I once used a copper wire, maybe 16 gauge to take up the slack of a tube that would not fit tight into an engine EGR valve. The tube stuck at at approx 3/4"
I wrapped the copper around the tube until the hold down nut crushed the copper and the seal was made.  I am almost thinking of using the same idea here, as the copper would deform to the shape of the f*cked up machining. But like I said, less than $20.00 in parts could bring these blocks and valves back to life.

I kinda think, the coils on the dumps can also be changed out too, to common Delta coils. All IMO




Ahh, the check valve for a quick cheap fix might be a different story, I would have used some sort of washers to bring up the tension. BUT IMO, it was not the tension of the spring that caused the problem. It was the keeping of the ball centered at all times. Plus I thought I seen one of the balls damaged from hitting the block.

Real Stone Hydraulics uses the same ball check valve, but the springs are not all the same, I did find one spring and ball that fit perfect. The strong spring plus an added 1/8" in spring length. I was going to buy one off a guy on LIL, but got to remembering the Stone check valve and Reds looked the same.

My first thought was the needed sleeve

Next would be machine the ball with softer metal and have the part facing the block to be sorts made into a "V" to help guide the ball into the block.

Next thought was to machine the block with a higher ball stop (of softer metal). and the inside would be shaped like an open "V"

There are other type of check valves that might be small enough to fit inside the block, but I think the best way would have been to get a real check valve and cut it in half and press it into place.

Or those check valves that look like fittings, Somebody makes them, and may have a catalog. But I kinda think machine would be needed, but the valve would never give out.

REMEMBER all IMO

From: Rick Dizzle

Yep, that is it! That seal I circled was ALWAYS my culprit. I remember seeing that thing being blown up past that head and sticking out the side...now to be clear I don't mean like the entire o-ring, but you would see it partially coming through. I even remember seeing the seal with like a horizontal split in it....not against the width of the seal but with it.



Image by: 84euroclipbrougham