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Everything on this post and all others are not based on facts.



And just some ideas for a replacement check valves/s

1) here is how it's sits inside the block,

2) then we see the external check used as a internal check valve, see how the external check valve faces when installed, look how small of an orifice there is, geeze.

3) This is how the check ball looks turned around,

Everything on this post and all others are not based on facts.


1) The center port is where the check ball and spring check valve sit.

2) Don't know how the check spring got so bad, could have stuck when tightening or tightening.

3) last pic is how some of the port holes are drilled.

All of the following info may or may not be factual, just observations.

1)Here is where the check valve sits.

2) Don't know how the spring got so bad.

3) A view of some internal ports


Everything on this post and all others are not based on facts.

Notice the machine work done on the lower part of the nut, it curves upward, when it should be straight:

And notice the treads in the block, how they come all the way up to where the o-ring sits on/in the block, not a real good idea.

I have never used these.

more to come...

New Old Stock NOS  1677TLE-12-24-20  Hydraulic Solenoid Valve

General characteristics item description: normally open solenoid dump,voltage 24.0 dc; operating pres. 3000.0 psi; includes poppet 113425; steel ball,grade 1,0.0625 in. dia

A few more, I have no other info but that some may be 3,000PSI at 24 volts
NOS Gould Waterman 1620TLE-8-24 Hydraulic Solenoid Valve NSN-4810010497440
New Old Stock NOS  1620TLE-8-24  Hydraulic Solenoid Valve 3000 psi, 24 VDC, Needle fow control. Model number 1620TLE 8 24

Another area of concern is the flaking chrome where the o-ring sits  At approx 10:00 to 2:00  this should be feather edged in case the flaking chrome starts to dig into the o-ring.
Try to avoid using thick o-rings.

So all-and-all, install a washer that fits on that round raised area above the o-ring, and sits in the recessed area. This could be all you need.

And you know those check valves from the old stone power packs, see if you can find a nice strong spring that fits inside the hex nut that hold the check valve.

And the last thought, is to see if you can use those check valves that are inside of fittings. On the reds blocks, you remove the existing spring and ball and thread (NPT) out the port, (if possible), to install the exterior check valve, making it into a interior check valve

1) Now here is how the dump valves stems should look, that nut will turn so you can get a tight fit no matter where the port sits.

2) As you can see there is a lot of room for the o-ring. The metal washer on the fitting, is just about the same size to fit around the raised area of the fitting. Now looking at the dump valve you will also see a much thicker raised area for a thicker washer.

3) this is how you want it to look, so you have some room to play with the nut, washer, o-ring.  That washer is what's needed to stop the o-ring from blowing out.

1) See that raised area just below the nut, that is were you want to install a washer, that washer must sit flush inside port. The good thing about the valve, is that the threads leave lots of room to fit (on top of the o-ring).

2) This how that raised area looks

Also note all the chrome flaking off the valve and o-ring seat.