Hydros to lower and to hop+dance

[opanak]

Why not be backwards?

I understand that hydos are used to pop up a lowrider.
I also seem to understand that a coil spring is used to cushion and spring up the vehicle in the opposite direction of the force of gravity.  and that gravity forces the fluid out of the actuator chambers in most or all lowrider set-ups.

Objective: to drive a vehicle that is high arch spung at regular height with unaltered spring heights (usually shortened) or tension (2.5 tons?), but use hydraulics to lower the vehicle for entry and exit but also to take advantage of that equipment to be able to still hop and dance the vehicle.

What is the right way to configure a system to take a high sprung vehicle and lower it to the ground for easy entry and exit.  

Will this obviously be a two hose - traditional hydraulic cylinder set up?

Can the cylinder be plumbed in a way, for normal driving, that the shock absorbers ar removed and the hydraulic cylinders used with normaly open valves with a restrictor or flow valve on one of the hoses going to a reservoir?

I have a good understanding of hydraulic cylinders, are the seals between the chamber and shaft an issue?  They shouldn't be.

Can it still be set up to hop??  

There is a second part to this for later.

vol_vo / hydros I know you have answers - e.mail me.

Thanks

[Tony/Square/Hydros]

I tried this years ago using a double action cylinder. I only needed one hose because the spring popped the car back up (in the front). But I was using a shorten coil spring.

Basically when hydraulic cylinders need to move something up and down,  or close to it, a one port cylinder is most used. For horizontal movement , then a two way cylinder would be used.

If you were to use a stock length spring the ride would be too hard as the coil would be compressed with almost no give.

I have a question, since it is late at night, I'm not fully understanding the question. here's my question, would we be using a full length coil spring for your objective?

Also, are you asking if a hydraulic cylinder can be used as a shock?

I never used accumulators, but it seems you could remove the coils and use a restrictor inline with an accumulator. But what I have thought of is using a drilled out shock and piping fluid back to it when needed. Or... maybe use a second cylinder with a variable restrictor. Also I wonder how this might work when hopping, meaning use four cylinders in the front to hop.

[Hydros]

Why not be backwards?

I understand that hydos are used to pop up a lowrider.
I also seem to understand that a coil spring is used to cushion and spring up the vehicle in the opposite direction of the force of gravity.  and that gravity forces the fluid out of the actuator chambers in most or all lowrider set-ups.

Objective: to drive a vehicle that is high arch spung at regular height with unaltered spring heights (usually shortened) or tension (2.5 tons?), but use hydraulics to lower the vehicle for entry and exit but also to take advantage of that equipment to be able to still hop and dance the vehicle.

What is the right way to configure a system to take a high sprung vehicle and lower it to the ground for easy entry and exit.  

Will this obviously be a two hose - traditional hydraulic cylinder set up?

Can the cylinder be plumbed in a way, for normal driving, that the shock absorbers are removed and the hydraulic cylinders used with normally open valves with a restriction or flow valve on one of the hoses going to a reservoir?

I have a good understanding of hydraulic cylinders, are the seals between the chamber and shaft an issue?  They shouldn't be.

Can it still be set up to hop??  

There is a second part to this for later.

vol_vo / hydros I know you have answers - e.mail me.

Thanks

To spread something apart, you need a single acting cylinder,
to cause it to come together, you need a double acting cylinder.

to bring the car down, you compress the coil, the car will pop up when removing the pressure in the cylinders (or dumping)  the car can hop, I have done this with mixed results, first problem was with learning to time the switch.  

This is the basic design, see how the cylinder retracts and compresses the coil causing the car to lower. BUT there is something missing with this design, I think there needs a normally open dump valve. Did this back in 81 ??  Just keep thinking I used that NO big green to make it work, by itself or with a NC valve too.

This is the best I can remember at this time, I keep thinking I had to enlarge the frame hole for the cylinder too. Check back for updates, if any.