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[Hopefully:]

This current video (#3 of 4) :  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qxP4TY_jtrs
This Is what www.hydros.biz is about, an educational site and a site for sharing innovative ideas and making them happen.

Plan is to get as many inches as possible with 24 volts, was just playing with the Saco, until I could get a part made for the real motor I had in mind. First what we have is a modified Piston pump. Then we have several other configurations of motors and pump heads in the works..

We will concentrate on only 24VDC, The reason are:
it is easy to charge,
less likely to have the solenoids stick.
takes up less room,


Posted are just updates for those interested. Sorry but no secretes to be posted.

This system of hopping on 24VDC is all experimental. We are sharing a step by step progress. Expect lots of let downs and delays.  

We are trying the Saco motor, piston pump and #11 gears  -- DONE
Then try out the MFX motor, piston pump and #13 gears -- IN THE WORKS
The try out the aircraft motor and large pump heads. -- WITHIN A YEAR.


Hopefully:
Special motor, w/#11 gears             10" to 14"   (not saco)
Special motor, w/#13 gears             12." to 15"
THE SECOND STAGE, W/#13 gears   17.5" to 25"
Final second stage,                        22" to 30"

Here we have the ground for the body/frame going directly to the negative side of the ground connector, and extra posts for direct grounds for the dumps, pumps and solenoids.  Everything is tied onto one ground.

And the positive is using studs from solenoids, soldered on for some but not all 24VDC connections.

The single 24VDC battery positive cable is going to one of the solenoids and then connects all solenoids to 24VDC, so as to have a cleaner look. I was going to use a copper strip to make a mount for all the postive terminals. This would have been between the solenoid for the front and for the rear. But decided to make it a litter easier to connect other positives for testing. I was going to solder on female wiring termial for fast connect and disconnect, but, it was too much trouble. Just add a loop terminal for the hardware to connect to positive.

When you wire up your ground disconnect, be sure to have the female end connecting to the battery.

<iframe src="http://rcm.amazon.com/e/cm?t=squaredumpcom-20&o=1&p=8&l=as1&asins=0313381496&ref=tf_til&fc1=000000&IS2=1&lt1=_blank&m=amazon&lc1=0000FF&bc1=000000&bg1=FFFFFF&f=ifr" style="width:120px;height:240px;" scrolling="no" marginwidth="0" marginheight="0" frameborder="0"></iframe>

[To find and then use an original set of plates:]

http://www.semasan.com/page.asp?content=aa_2013CA1&g=SEMAGA

The law specifies that 7,500 applications must be reached by January 1, 2015. If 7,500 applications are not received by that date, any fees paid for the California Legacy plates will be refunded to the applicant.

http://apps.dmv.ca.gov/forms/reg/reg17L.pdf

To find and then use an original set of plates:
http://www.google.com/search?q=The+Legacy+License+Plate+program+does+not+replace+the+Year+of+Manufacture+plate+program.++&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a#hl=en&client=firefox-a&hs=7zx&tbo=d&rls=org.mozilla:en-US%3Aofficial&sclient=psy-ab&q=year+of+manufacture+license+plate+program&oq=Year+of+Manufacture+plate+program.&gs_l=serp.1.0.0i8i30.37603.38807.0.42341.2.2.0.0.0.0.135.261.0j2.2.0.les%3B..0.0...1c.1.ijdIzUoB754&pbx=1&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.&bvm=bv.41248874,d.cGE&fp=3e58ffd4bb6095f6&biw=1024&bih=608

Early Stone or lift-gate pumps had all the plumbing needed to work the lift. Manually, and electrically.

The vent cap on the tanks were needed, this was used as a filler port and as a way to keep vacuum out of a system that was low on fluid.

Early Lowrider gate tanks that have:
the vent cap removed and a return hose stuck into it,
a second hole drilled out to accept the return hose.
The reasons for this was that riders did not know or did not have the means to return the fluid through the block return.

The gate pumps were designed as a complete unit, they already had a check valve and dump valve built in. On these early type, you had to know what was needed to be removed or modified so as not to return fluid through the top of the tank.

To avoid all this hassle with tank returns, you just needed to find a pump with the electric solenoid dump valve. Most times, this wasn't possible.  A lot of pump were stolen and the riders that used them had to make do.

Once truck rentals or delivery companies got tired of pumps being stolen, they would weld the bolts that held the blocks to the plates that supported the blocks. Thing was, a screw driver would get you the motor, and a two sockets and wrench would get you the tank and pump head.  Then the companies started welding metal cages or boxes around the gates.

At the time, a few lives were saved because of the safety chain that was used to keep the platform from  falling was in place.  Some of the cylinders were one way, meaning gravity caused them to come down on their own, and pressure was used to keep them up. You take away the pressure, down goes the platform.

#1) would be an electrical dump valve or a manual dump valve.
#2) is the early internal check valve. A spring with one or two balls at each end, within a round sleeve was the design.
#3) was usually just the fitting to hold the check valve, sometimes this port would be used as the pressure port.
#4) is the pressure relief valve, the ball and spring would go along this port, and the ball would sit just to the right of the pressure port from the pump head. As the pressure built up, it would unseat the ball and fluid would return back into the tank. We would tighten the fitting as tight as we could to compress the spring to prevent it from opening and releasing any fluid.
#5) would sometimes be used as the pressure port for Lowriders.
#6) is the port for the return to inside the tank
#7) is the external port for the return fluid. Tank returns were never used with lift-gates.
#8) is the original pressure port for lift-gate pumps, and we also used as the pressure ports before riders started to gut the blocks out for better performance.
#9) is unknown at this time, this is the mystery 7th port, I will study it later. It was never used for Lowriders. My guess its just another return port.
#10) is the internal pressure port for the pump head and block.

Please note, I did not garbage up the image with a watermark, you use it, please tell who made this and posted it. Hydros.biz

you could,  and I have done this; use the center port for pressure to one cylinder, then "T" a fitting for a hose over to the second cylinder. That's it. Just two hoses and a built in dump valve on the block and you have a setup with 12 volts.

Note one block has 2 ports on top and the other has three. We will go into this later.  The two port only needs to be drilled straight down to the ports inside the tank. The three ports require original fittings.

This is an example of the required different pump heads.

interesting to note, these are the same on the gear side, note the complete flat surface, not even an indent for the pump seal. This is because of the seal on the pump head. Also note the 9 spline pump shaft.

here is the older style with the newer. The right side requires the adapter plate