updates on the " Hydros Hybrid"

[Hydros]

This current video (#3 of 4) :  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qxP4TY_jtrs
This Is what www.hydros.biz is about, an educational site and a site for sharing innovative ideas and making them happen.

Plan is to get as many inches as possible with 24 volts, was just playing with the Saco, until I could get a part made for the real motor I had in mind. First what we have is a modified Piston pump. Then we have several other configurations of motors and pump heads in the works..

We will concentrate on only 24VDC, The reason are:
it is easy to charge,
less likely to have the solenoids stick.
takes up less room,


Posted are just updates for those interested. Sorry but no secretes to be posted.

This system of hopping on 24VDC is all experimental. We are sharing a step by step progress. Expect lots of let downs and delays.  

We are trying the Saco motor, piston pump and #11 gears  -- DONE
Then try out the MFX motor, piston pump and #13 gears -- IN THE WORKS
The try out the aircraft motor and large pump heads. -- WITHIN A YEAR.


Hopefully:
Special motor, w/#11 gears             10" to 14"   (not saco)
Special motor, w/#13 gears             12." to 15"
THE SECOND STAGE, W/#13 gears   17.5" to 25"
Final second stage,                        22" to 30"

[Hydros]

UPDATE
1-18-2013

The hopper has been moved into place. The old 3 tons will be used as they are broken in I cut them since they are the wrong ones, I may even cut them a turn or two to see if there is any better switch action. In the mean time, the batteries are getting a charge.

[Hydros]

UPDATE
1-19-2013

Today, arranged the two group 24F batterys.
Repositioned the rear pump to face side ways.  

I am configuring the rear pump to allow testing of solenoid valves, there will be a shut off for the cylinders and a shut off before the test dumps. This way the rear pump can work with the switches, and then the rear cylinders can be isolated for the rear pump to then test other hydraulic parts. = Lots of hoses and shut offs.

[Hydros]

1-31-13
today's update:
still can't find that piston.
got the wrong fittings
shop sent back wrong part.

UPDATE: 2-8-13
Found the piston,
Need to rebuild the Big Green, Worked fine 30 years ago, what gives?
need an 20" #8 hose
changed mind on air/fluid ratio,
Got a new idea, so, need some more time and parts,

2-17-13
SUNDAY UPDATES
decided not to rebuild the big green, it will only need to hold pressure for approx 1 minute for the video
did repair the powers wires to the Big green
going to remove the Parker faucet slow down and replace it to match the combos valves (other check valves)
tried my best to port out the pressure port on the Marz.
Found wear on pump body = bad news
Got all the hoses
finally bolted in block w/tank (no motor yet)


update for Sunday 2/24/2013
had to buy more fittings
installed the cylinders, while bleeding out the air I was in a bad hurry, resulted in a major setback, need to order more parts, this has put the project back about 10 days
3 1/2 ton coils were cut down 1/3 turn, they sit straight up!
redid the hose configuration for the rear setup.
tested the two 3-way #6 hydro-aires, they suck if the slow down is too slow, and the secondary diverted side needs to be activated first as the primary side will go up.
configured the wiring and started wiring up the dumps and solenoids.
by chance I found a totally new concept on the type of switches to use and how to hit the switches.
decided to use 14/3 cords

2-27-13
I am only getting about 4 hours a week to work on this project. In the mean time I am studying on how to attach the 20,000 RPM aircraft motor to an external pump head. The pump is way bigger than the common Marz. This motor has the HP, Torque at 24VDC than any MARZ at 96 volts. You see, it's all about the motors, you want to hop higher, add another battery. Which is just having more fluid pumping. Some may say it's PSI over volume, BUT, that is 1/2 true, once you reach the needed pressure, it's all volume from then on.


OK Sundays updates, 3-3-13
NEVER NEVER, be in a hurry, having some brews, work at night and with two flashlights. - Wife comes up to me and asks, where should I put these rags, she sees my fluid soaked shirt and then without a blink, walks away. Boys, you got a girl like this, she is a KEEPER.

Did some machine work. Take note, when you grind something backwards, and find you messed up, turn it over.
Really need to get rid of the two #6 3-way Hydro-aire valves, nothing but trouble.
Did install final dump valve,
More wiring work done,
Did a real nice job of cleaning the trunk and lid of most of the fluid, again.

[Hydros]

UPDATE 13TH AND 14TH

The video has been made, and with it I posted somewhere it had about 10-12 problems/bugs, including motor mounts.

Today bleed out all the air. Again, I did use another pump to pump in fluid and pump the air out. Tis works well for a piston pump. Later I will vacuum bleed. It all looks like a plumbers paradise. There are 5 check/shutoff valves, and you got to remember what does what and when. Other wise you blow the tank.

Anywaz after the air was out, I thought maybe I'd hit the switch, knowing that it just was not ready and something else could FU. Well it did not, This was like three times the action of the first video, it was getting dark and I really was not in the mood to play hopper. The batteries did not last (see next update)

(video #1 of 4) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J6-98zdMF_4 This was made last week, not even close to being perfected.

The coupling has been modified to fit the MFX, hopefully my neighbor can weld it this week. It needs to be welded like cast iron, heat it up, then weld at both ends in a vise, There is a grade 2 threaded rod inside of the coupling, This was the best idea I could come up with, outside a machine shop that welds. Then when the welding is done it needs to cool nice and slow.

So now I need to get some more bugs out, (there is always some weak area that will crop up sooner or later). Then test it with the MFX, I might have the patience to fire up the saco, so others can see with a little imagination what it can do with a #11 Marz. Then it's on to what I really have planned out!!

A heads up, I think, (think) I can get 2-3" out of the saco and 11's. But it's not really worth bothering with, it's the MFX that should shine. BUT this is an area I have never been to, in the 70's there was no pump head larger than the Stone #8. (there were others, but would not fit the standard block, another thread, another time).  So we are hoping the #11 will work as expected, if not, then it's the #9

update 3/14/13
at 6:30 PM tonight, after I grounded the motor and hooked up the noids in parallel, doubled up on the cables and replaced another o-ring and then vacuum bleeding the system for about 45 minutes, I thought what the heck, I started hitting the switch, the batteries were sounding real weak.

Anyways I was about to button it all up for the night, but decided to try to hop it anyways, you had to have been there. The piston tank was not even charged. On a slant and on soft ground with the tires digging into the dirt, I could swear I hit 1" yeah I know no big deal, once I limit the travel of the a-arms, I might get 2" ANYWAYS, hopefully within two weeks you will see the video posted on youtube, of a 24VDC hopper in action,

Anyways I still need to fix that 1/2 burnt off battery post. I am thinking of pouring liquid solder that melts at a lower temp into the burn out area, if this works I will post that on you tube, so all those with missing battery posts take note.

[Hydros]

update 3/15/13

The burnt up battery post was somewhat repaired, melted soldered was dripped all over the clamp and what was left of the terminal. The battery terminal was not cleaned so the solder did not stick. I spilled on a bunch of solder and heated up a some metal to lay over the added solder, turned out OK, looks like hell. I'll test it later to see if it gets warm while hopping. - I should have sand blasted it first.  To weld the modified coupling, my neighbor was home, I think, but was not outside working on his dune or desert buggy. Cool dude.

[Hydros]

March 16th, 2013

3-16-13
Just went out to see if the welder was home, well, you all know how it is, just had to hook it all up and hit it. - Then I decided to lock the rear, I have no switch for the rear so don't bother with it. (recall it's those#6 Hydros-aires that don't flow when the slow down is tight.  

So I hit it, then try again then one more time,  The car is again rocking and sliding down the slop, but...  I think I seen 3" And of course when someone tells you how high they get, automatically take off 5"

The repaired battery post turned out real solid, was stone cold after hitting the switch, so that repair to the 1/2 burnt post was good.    All other connections were cold too, seems the solenoids were just a tad warm.

To Newbies, if it gets hot = no good
If warm =OK
If cold =very good

[Hydros]

You decided how many inches. The board does bounce up, look closely.  All trial work using a regular motor is finished.
This is the last and final video using a regular gate motor:  www.youtube.com/watch?v=qxP4TY_jtrs  --

There is a 4th video, it will not get posted, The last images shown below appears to be just a hair higher.

[Hydros]

Learn from my mistakes. I really can't show any images of the setup when it was working.
But I can show you why you need to play it safe, take your time, use the best parts.

If you are building something new, here is my strong advise... NEVER BE IN A HURRY, always use the best parts, triple check everything, safety is first, performance is second. Use plenty of safely devises, pressure reliefs, pressure gauges and double up on any critical parts if one fails. If one point fails, you may find the bomb squad at your house and hopefully just a bad ringing in one ear.

I say use #9 gears to start, a tank 1/4" thick, 1/2" grade 8 rods and 5,000 PSI hoses. Plus many backup safety devises. USA fittings. Forget the 24VDC saco system, finding a high torque motor is best, and bigger batteries.

In reality I can get better inches using a different motor, thus making it this less of a bomb. Most guys may not know it, but just bleeding the system correctly on a piston pump and removing resistant connections works wonders.

Keeping the Saco, 24VDC and #11 is just a bomb and will cost too much. Lower the pressures, then increase the volts or amps, or increase the cylinder ID.

[Hydros]

This is an educational site, learn from my setbacks.
Just a minor glitch. It happens, More details later,

That is part of my Monster Green valve from the 70s
next is what left of the hydro-aire valve