First stages to keeping motor from over heating, and keep armature clean

[Hydros]

First stages to use freon to cool and clean motor casing and armature



Was thinking of using fuel injectors to cool armature brushes, but then decided on a regular NC dump valve, this in itself may cause problems, as any fluid passing through a small office will cause it to ice up and blockage can result. IMO

First was to get all the pieces need together.  It took awhile to get the fittings and dumps to match up.
Then the outlet port was drilled into the motor casing.
R143a was used because of the excellent can tap and it gas is non flammable.

The gauges will be used for testing, and hopefully will not be needed after testing and installed in the trunk.
The weak point in this design is the solenoid dump valve. It must be lubricated correctly, The freon will wash it away. A liquid valve must be used. IMO.   The valve can be under 300 PSI.  What might work well, would be the valve on a 12VDC refrigerator from a camper or motor home.

Once the setup is finished and installed, it will just be the can of freon, dump valve and line to the casing.
A fan to draw fresh air from the block side of the casing and out of an open end cap should be considered. Plus a way for the freon to drip out of the lower (6:00) position should be considered.

One fitting had to be soldered together, no need to braze or weld, as this is just vented into the air.

One combination is to activate the freon solenoid when the hydraulic pump is activated. Or when dumping or both.

Now another idea would be to port out the battery solenoids and add a port to spray freon inside each solenoid. Or to install the noids in a inclosure and spray the freon into that. This should only be considered for extreme hopping or dancing.

I will study into what other gases can be used and post.

A video of this in action is next.

[Hydros]

Here is a link to the video:

http://youtu.be/Y6e4FAE0W8o

[Hydros]

Bad shot, but a closeup and better view.
Note the frosted brake line, and elbow. R134a did not work that well, even after removing the elbow and soldering and then drilling a smaller orifice.

Never could get the temp gauge in the right position.

It was found that the long hoses and tubing caused the freon to turn to a gas as it exited into the casing. A higher pressure IMO would have worked. We need a vapor, not a gas.

[Hydros]

Here is how the setup looks in the light. and the second is how it looks as it was tested.

It appears you could get about 50 hits with one can, and you can always double up on the cans, or get exotic and have a temp sensor, (like on your cars engine) to then allow volts to activate the freon valve.

This configuration allows for liquid to directly flow onto the casing. Again this solenoid valve was not made to pass a liquid.

This cooling system needs work to get the bugs out.  Then more work on the casing with a fan, then we can install it, more testing and refinement. Verifying the pros and cons and post the results. Then the video in action.  

If this turns out to be a bullet proof system and if riders/hoppers are interested, we will take orders for kits and provide our casings and backing plates. All you do it connect your armature, brushes and field coils and then secure the cooling system in your trunk. You can even send us back your old casing as a core, or we can put together the entire complete system.

This system could be considered the ghetto or low cost way. A more expensive design is already in the works.

Check the other topics on this site for coming articles on the hydraulic quick disconnect and the hopper with a Pesco to the nose.

Had to use the fittings I had on hand, it will look much cleaner and meaner later


Thanks goes out to Jack Bauer from LIL

[Hydros]

Rumor has it that something like this was tried sometime in the 90s, in Scrap Magazine, I'll take a look and get back.

[Hydros]

Here is the second video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u72WLcGFAG0

[Hydros]

This test has just the motor free spinning.

The injections of freon is not that clear do to the rotation, IMO, plus the injection shots can not be heard as easily.

Looking at this, having a non-vented cover may be the best way to go. But, am thinking of adding a weep hole somewhere on the lower part of the casing.  

I think it's best to contain as much vapor as possible inside, since we are adding more pressure inside the casing, the gas will find it's own way out. So IMO a vented cover should not be used. And to cool everything a weep hole could also direct the freon, just need some thought on where to place it. Freon is a heavy gas, how is destroys the ozone is a mystery. That said, vapor coming from the top will (IMO) rotate and should exit the far end.

Another thought is to use the inlet port and vacuum out or blow out any dust.

Also noted the dump valve becomes very cold while testing, This cooling is for now, just wasted ,and could be used for cooling the solenoids.  

One more thought, recall that brake line frosting up, that line could be wrapped around the motor case for extra cooling. But, may have an negative affect on the overall cooling system.