Hydros
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« on: March 17, 2006, 11:01:32 PM » |
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I was looking at this motor on ebay and was wondering if I could adapt a standard block to it. They didn't cost all that much, so I bought two of them.
The motor is made by Fenner and like most Lowrider pumps these days, the basic design originated from the Fenner/Stone lift gate pumps.
Thinking this, it seemed like an idea to try out. It "appears" that this motor runs at about twice the HP and RPM as the 12vdc motors. My thinking is that if this is made for 24 vdc, then, maybe it will last twice as long at 96 vdc (8 batteries).
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« Last Edit: September 18, 2012, 03:51:00 AM by Hydros »
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Hydros
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« Reply #1 on: March 17, 2006, 11:07:01 PM » |
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I tried the common standard adaptor plate off to the lower left, no luck.
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« Last Edit: September 18, 2012, 03:51:34 AM by Hydros »
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Hydros
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« Reply #2 on: March 17, 2006, 11:08:54 PM » |
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The cover plate off this Fenner motor to see if the adaptor plate would fit. It was held on by four small bolts.
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« Last Edit: September 18, 2012, 03:52:09 AM by Hydros »
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Hydros
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« Reply #3 on: March 17, 2006, 11:14:15 PM » |
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I knew the coupling would fit. The adapter plate did not work, the bearing was too wide, among other issues.
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« Last Edit: September 18, 2012, 03:52:34 AM by Hydros »
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Hydros
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« Reply #4 on: March 17, 2006, 11:47:12 PM » |
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I decided to check and see if any combination would work. Here is a pic of the bottom bolt holes for the block. As luck would have it, a perfect fit.
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« Last Edit: September 18, 2012, 03:52:57 AM by Hydros »
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Hydros
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« Reply #5 on: March 18, 2006, 02:43:18 AM » |
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If you can just make it out, the top cover plate and block holes are just 1/8" off center. The block has the holes outward from the center. At this time, it appears more avantageous to drill the top plate to match the block holes.
The backing plate tank rods will need to be longer. These longer rod bolts will hold down the tank to the block and motor all together at once.
A regular Lowrider motor is held in place by two long bolts, (some also use a pin to keep the motor from twisting), this will use four. If the motor still twists, then a flat bracket or plate can be used to bolt the motor and pump into. Or by some other means.
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Hydros
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« Reply #6 on: March 18, 2006, 02:59:06 AM » |
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Here is a better view of how it all came together, no too bad. Check out the vent holes on the motor... Hmm ... makes me think this might be a continues duty motor, meaning, it might not be suitable for hopping.
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« Last Edit: September 18, 2012, 03:53:57 AM by Hydros »
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Hydros
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« Reply #7 on: March 18, 2006, 03:00:33 AM » |
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This is how it looks with the tank. I still need to drill the four holes out and attache the plate and rods. Then it's all ready to hookup and test.
The block does sit about 1/8" lower than the motor bracket, still an easy fix.
I'll break out the new chrome tank later if this combination does perform well.
I will use it in the hopper for some mad street hopping.
I'll let you all know how it works out, maybe you might want to make up a conversion yourself even if it's not all that great for hopping, but just street use. Seems for the price and a couple hours of work it might be good, if the motor doesn't drain the batteries too fast, or sound too nasty.
Wish me/us luck...
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« Last Edit: September 18, 2012, 03:54:28 AM by Hydros »
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