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Note first image has shrader valve removed, top center

Next pics show everything all cleaned up and we can now measure how thick that bottom section is:
length of tank on the outside is 10" -
inside is 9.5" = 1/2" plate thick plate.

The last pics shows the original valve and recessed area on the piston so that the two don't hit each other while in use/misuse.

When the first generation BMH (black magic hydraulics) piston tank came it it was a one piece deal, the backing plate was part of the cylinders or casing. -

First thing we needed to do was decide what type of dump valve/s to use and then how, many holes needed to be drilled into the tank.

A three-way or 3 ports valve only needed one hole at the backing plate, but this might have caused unneeded restriction. (as it was decided to use flow and not pressure to charge the gas chamber. SO, two holes were drilled and taped for NPT, and a 2-way Hydro-aire green was used for -
intake and an industrial dump valve was used for exhaust.

First the piston had to be removed, the shrader valve was removed and all the fluid was dumped out, then the tank was place upside down and air pressure applied to the port made for the shrader valve, using about 15PSI, the piston came out

First pic is all the gunk and chips and old rings I found in the original tank, had to clean it all up.

this is for a 24 volts system using a 12 volt motor

The reason we use a limited amount of air/gas into the gas side of the piston pump, is that the piston on the fluid return must fight air/gas pressure that is on the other side of the piston, when dumping. This is why the switch is held longer in the dump position while dumping when using a piston pump.

Here's the solution, use a reversible motor.  
It will pump a high pressure return of fluid back into the tank and at the same time over come the gas pressure on the other side of the piston.

A check valve might not be needed, but in it's place you might want to use 2 Adex valves. One valve may not be not enough to allow full flow, as fluid must pass through the valve/s as a shut off and as a dump valve/s.

I have a reversible motor, but I don't have the time to get the project finished for at least a year. This is why I make this idea public, to receive the credit for this innovative idea now, before someone else makes it public.  





Another thought, might be to use an external tandem pump head (2 and 2 gears in one pump head). And use a bladder as a storage tank.
or a second pump heads attached to the front of the armature.

One thing 99.99% sure, better have some big batteries

Here we have 2,000 to 10,000 PSI rating,
aircraft and industrial
slowdowns and combo valves (has a slow one way and a check valve the other way)

This is the look at the first gas tank, got it at a garage sale for $5.00,  it's made of steel.  The treads on the hand valve were a 99% match, for what was planned, BUT, not 100%.  At the counter of the gas shop they told me it was a good thing they got a look at it first.

They sent the tank in to have the hand valve changed, and was pressure tested, or hydro tested. What was returned was the same tank with a new tag and the correct hand valve for nitro, and was filled with approx 1,800 PSI of nitro.

They had some tanks made of aluminum, but something about them was just not good or safe enough to use.

Those brass fittings allow you to attach what ever hose or fittings you have in mind. We used NPT and JIC

When looking straight into the hand valve, (no pic, but you can just see part of it in the top pic) you can see another fitting inside of it, this extra fitting will slow down the flow of gas as the orifice is too small.  It's there for safety and strength of the hand valve.

to be CONT...

first a compressed gas was needed, as in the tanks used for welding. Pure oxygen is explosive, nitrogen was chosen instead.
Then two dump valves were needed, one at the nitro tank to allow it's pressure to flow into the piston pump tank, and the other dump valve to allow pressure to leave the piston pump tank.

1)  The nitro tank dump valve is wired so that when the piston pump motor engages, the dump valve opens.
once the switch is at rest or off the up side position, then the dump valve closes. - Once the valve opens, this causes the nitro to force the piston toward the pump head, which forces fluid under greater pressure to prime the pump head. And at the same time, by-passing the pump head and forcing fluid straight to the cylinders via the return ports drilled into the piston pump block.

2) The second gas dump is wired to open when the cars dump valve also dumps. The second gas pressure dump valve opens and allows the pump piston to return. As the piston returns, it is allowing two different flows of fluid to return, one is from the regular dump valve, and the other is from the drilled out return ports in the block itself.

I choose spool valves as they hold pressure on both (port) sides at the same time. This spool valve was needed from the nitro tank to the piston pump air/gas chamber.

The first and second images are what was basically used, the last image it doubling if one valve fails to open.

NOTE, all valves used are normally closed.

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