Holy ****!

Is there such thing as a 3 stage shock, that would allow much more travel?

So what is the physical diffrence in wiring 4 one after the other or 2 next to the othr 2?
I like those 2 parallel banks n i have an idea for a cool rack for them.

With 2 banks, each solenoid will see half the amperage.

One idea from that thread was a cup with shock mount on the back of it.

Here is an interesting thread I found:

http://www.layitlow.com/forums/13-hydraulics/341886-x-frame-outboard-shock-pics.html

Interesting. I wonder if anyone knows the response time for adex, delta, italian, etc. . Would be nice for comparison.

That 2x2 configuration makes perfect sense.

with a tail rod

Exactly what I was thinking, but with a shock attached to the tailrod.

OK, they are piston accumulators from BMH.

Only pics I could find on layitlow.

For it to work the piston would have to be coupled to a shock somehow.  

I took the name of the last image, pistonacc2.jpg did a search, nothing, then I removed the 2, found a mess of these. Will study for a bit.

pistonacc = piston accumulator

I created that file name, I think it was gibberish when I got it from layilow.

OK, they are piston accumulators from BMH.

Only pics I could find on layitlow.

For it to work the piston would have to be coupled to a shock somehow. 

Are there any dumps out there that could be considered in between Oil system and adex/adel, both in price and performance? Big jump in price.

And Merry Christmas too.

I too have wondered about this, I am wondering about the Black Magic Hydraulics house brand. I guess a call would help.
They make the
L.A square (Adel look) $175.00
Adel-II (regular) $315.00, but the Adex is $60. more.


On the Industrial side, I believe it is much cheaper to buy them from ebay. I have seen monsters that require manifold blocks,

I really don't know a lot about the industrial or oil systems, but am thinking the oil systems are just industrial and higher pressures can be found. The Circle Seals valves are rated up to 6,000 PSI.

and to you and yours! 



I'm almost certain BMH said the L.A. square was just for looks.


I have looked into industrial stuff a few times but have no idea what I'm looking for. I bet all dumps marketed for lowriders are borrowed from industrial applications. I figured pressure rating was the easy part. How would you know how fast a dump closes without testing it first?

Are there any dumps out there that could be considered in between Oil system and adex/adel, both in price and performance? Big jump in price.

Have you seen the cylinder accumulators? I think they are made specifically for lowriders. I'm not sure if they use a bladder or piston. If it's a piston, I wonder if that design could be changed to incorporate a shock absorber coupled to the piston itself. It would probably only work on a euro with both ends of the cylinder bolted to the car.

I kno, old post, and maybe there was a second thought on it.
But wouldnt this be the same as putting an extension on the fitting or using a longer hose? = does nothin?
Cant seem to wrap my head around how this trick can improve on speed but im happy to be taught.

Same here. 

[So a tight coil inside a standard coil, to stop the car from bottoming out? Any ideas how to hold the skinny spring in place with a coil under?]

Notice how the front end slams to the ground when hopping, all kinds of parts fly off.

what if another coil spring fit inside the current spring, small and tight, like train coils, I used to ride with them, a friend got them after a train accident.

Anyways, they were stuff as nails. This is the part I don't get, you need a lot of turns or stiff coils to keep from smacking the ground,  but, the performance sucks, IMO.  

so you get coils that perform good, yet if the switch is miss-timed your front end flys off.

So a tight coil inside a standard coil, to stop the car from bottoming out? Any ideas how to hold the skinny spring in place with a coil under?

What I see is now the rear axle is getting move more rearward. the back-end no longer needs to sit so high to get the inches.  So, the distance from the front tires to the cars front bumper and angle is no longer an issue IMO,
Great point. But that could also be counter productive depending on the setup, I think mine will need all the leverage it can get.

How about a progressive rate hopping coil?

I think a big part of what makes a piston so good, is that is eliminates any cavitation, so no air in the system.

Does the dish shaped head significantly increase effective piston area? Not a bad idea...

I asked a few friends about this, they all agreed that the force only acts on what is perpendicular to it, meaning no difference. However I did find an old "google answer" which I found interesting:

"The pressure acts on what you might call the projected
area of the piston. The projected area being the area that would
project onto a plane perpendicular to the axis of the piston." 

I'll be sure to post any more info I find.

I agree. I had a single pump 6 battery setup for years. I could never get more than about 15",  so I decided to take the easy route and put a ton of equipment in the trunk. This was 2 years ago, just starting to have some time to finish it up. If I can't get it to do what I want, then I'm gonna switch to #7s.

My ideal setup would be 4-6 batteries, ride decent, partial wrap, and get about 24"-30". Mufasa is doing it, it's definitely possible. All this talk about efficiency is making me want to switch to a single bladder or piston.

I was looking the posts about your car, did you ever reach the 60" goal?

I tried them both on a single bank of 48v, just 4 batts in the trunk. I was sitting inside the car, but it felt the same as single on 48v. I built the rack for 10 batteries but only have 9, need to pick up one more. the plan is 2 banks of 60v.

I thought about the 2 different gears, but I can't do it currently because each side has a separate line. I think that one small gear and one big gear would be the same as 2 medium size gears, does that make sense?

Is there any reason in particular that tubular upper control arms have not caught on with lowriders? I have only seen them once on a juiced ride, in a picture. Is it purely an aesthetic thing? I would imagine they could be made very strong.

I'm running double to the front with #11s. I haven't had a chance to run it full power yet, but I think I should have went with #7's or #9's. Would fatter cylinders do the same thing as changing to a higher PSI/lower vol. gear?

Old post on LIL

they used to call 1.5" OD casings Midis, 1.625" were Fats, and 2" were super fats or torpedos. the OD doesnt really mean shit though, but the wall thicknesses were typically the same, and its easier to measure the moutside than the inside I suppose.. Skinnies are what I always called bike cylinders, or reverse flows were sometimes skinny like that.

Compairing them, you could run a #5 marzocchi to a pair of skinnies in a SLA front end off any voltage you wanted, and it would work, but a #11 gear would have trouble with anything under 72 volts.

any gear will lift a 'torpedo' in the front, so you might as well go with a big one on high voltage for plenty of speed.

For the rear, axle mounted cylinders, no point in using a big bore, use the smallest you can get away with (strength of the shaft being the only issue) and a 11 or 13 gear, depending on how much weight you have back there. With telescopic cylinders, you're just out of luck, your motors spinning itself into a frenzy, then all the sudden your bumper flings into the air when the smaller bore starts filling.

You see alot of people on here talking about pressure system vs volume system for hopping, and I really cant differentiate between the 2 unless your changing cylinder bore or placement.

Have you ever swapped to 2"OD(or anything bigger than 1.5"OD") without changing anything else? What were the results?

What are some good places to buy industrial hydraulic parts?

Do you have a source for the bladder of a bladder pump?